NZ’s Queenstown: beyond the bungy
Some people get excited by the idea of leaping from a platform 134m above a river with a rope tied around their ankles or swinging across a valley, eyes closed, at 120 kilometres an hour.
The louder they scream, the better the Facebook video.
But it’s not for me.
I’d rather be reclining in a hot bubbling spa with a glass of wine looking out over that same frothing river where the white-knuckle brigade risk life and limb bungy jumping, white-water rafting and river surfing.
Having built a reputation in recent years for its adventure activities, New Zealand’s Queenstown might seem an unlikely destination for the risk-averse. But the town, which sits on the shores of Lake Wakatipu and is surrounded by stunning mountains, was attracting tourists long before AJ Hackett invented the bungy and still has plenty to offer all kinds of holidaymakers.
My tip: try to visit outside of the peak holiday periods (summer school holidays and the ski season, unless you’re actually going for the snow) and hire yourself a car so you can explore the surrounding countryside at your leisure.
Based on recent first-hand experience, here are five recommended activities for those who prefer their holidays on the mild side rather than the wild side:
Onsen Hot Pools
Located just a 10-minute drive from Queenstown overlooking the Shotover River, these pools are a luxurious, steamy indulgence.
Each cedar-lined private bathing room offers views over the river and mountains, and has a retractable roof. Water temperature is between 37.8 degrees and 39.8 degrees – it was bliss in summer, and no doubt it would feel even more indulgent when there’s snow on the mountains.
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The Onsen Hot Pools are open from 11am-11pm each day, and you can even book a candlelight package if you’re feeling romantic. Prices start at $46 an hour for each adult, and pick up and drop off can be arranged from central Queenstown.
Skyline Luge
Just because you don’t want to go the full bungy doesn’t mean you’re a complete killjoy. So try the Luge. It’s seriously good fun and family-friendly.
Dismiss any images you may be having of the Winter Olympics luge, where steely-faced competitors lie face up on a sled and race down a course, feet first, at ludicrous speeds. The gradient on the Skyline Luge is far more gentle; you sit in a cart to ride down a winding course with tunnels and dips. The hilarity factor increases if you race your friends or family to the bottom. And it’s not scary – unless you have a problem with heights, in which case just close your eyes for the gondola trip and chairlift to the start of the ride.
For $55 per adult or $45 per child you get a five-ride pass (you’ll need it – the Luge is addictive), including the gondola trip. The added bonus is that you get to enjoy panoramic views over Queenstown; there’s also a restaurant at the top, and a spot where you can watch those bungy jumpers making their leap of faith.
Wining and dining
Adelaideans are spoiled for choice when it comes to burgers, so it might seem odd to queue for one while on holiday, but it’s hard to resist Queenstown’s Fergburger joint. The place is an institution and you’ll find yourself waiting in line just to see what all the fuss is about. And the burgers are pretty damn delicious (they also come with quirky names such as the Bun Laden, Little Lamby and Cock Cajun). The Ferg Bakery next door is also packed with scrumptious goodies that can be enjoyed without the queue.
For more leisurely eating and drinking, head down to the pier overlooking Lake Wakatipu to enjoy a meal or cocktail with a view. Pier 19, Atlas (known for its craft beers) and The Boiler Room are all good options and offer al fresco dining – that may seem an unlikely option in the cooler months, but most of these places also provide rugs if needed. If you want to experience the real big chill, rug up and visit the Minus 5 Ice Bar.
Slightly removed from the main tourist hub is restaurant Bella Cucina, which serves up classic Italian fare in a cosy, rustic setting complete with vintage posters and candelabras. The wood-fired pizzas – some of which feature local ingredients like wild hare and Southland lamb – are highly recommended.
TSS Earnslaw Steamship Cruises
This is the leisurely way to get out on the water and take in the natural alpine scenery of Queenstown.
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The Earnslaw was built in 1912 by New Zealand Railways to transport stock and passengers to high-country stations and is said to be the only passenger-carrying coal-fired steamship left in the Southern Hemisphere. These days it is owned by tourism business Real Journeys, and offers regular 90-minute cruises on Lake Wakatipu.
A collection of historic photos on the boat offers a glimpse of the boat operating in its heyday, and there’s nostalgic pleasure to be had watching the steam engines at work and inhaling the smell of decades past (if you can squeeze past the tourist with the selfie stick).
Those interested in seeing a working farm can disembark at Walter Peak sheep, deer and cattle farm, on the lake’s south-western shore, for a tour and tea or barbecue lunch.
Arrowtown
This former mining town is a 20-minute drive from Queenstown and well worth visiting – not just because it is steeped in history, but also because it is utterly charming and pretty as a picture.
Arrowtown sits on the banks of the Arrow River and its street are lined with mature sycamore, ash, oak, elm and rowan trees planted in 1867, during the peak of the Otago gold rush, to make the European settlers feel more at home. The town also has some of New Zealand’s best-preserved goldfields heritage buildings, which now house cafes and a collection of craft and gift shops.
The Lakes District Museum offers a fascinating insight into what life was like for the original Maori living in the area and for the pioneer settlers. It’s packed with treasures and you can even hire a pan to try your own luck searching for gold in the river.
There are also walking and biking trails (bikes can be hired) around Arrowtown, and film buffs may notice that some of the scenery is familiar from the Lord of the Rings trilogy, parts of which were filmed in the area.
Getting there
Queenstown has its own airport, with direct flights available from Sydney (Qantas and Jetstar) and Melbourne (Air New Zealand). It takes just under seven hours to drive from Christchurch, and about three hours and 40 minutes’ drive from Dunedin.
Where to stay
There is a wide range of accommodation available in Queenstown, but if you’re staying for more than a couple of nights then an apartment can be a good choice. We stayed at Alta Apartments, which are in a quiet location within walking distance of the town centre, offer lake and mountain views, and have everything you could possibly need. If you do go the self-catering route and you have a car, stock up on supplies at the large New World Supermarket at Frankton, just outside central Queenstown, to avoid the inflated tourist prices.
